Roof Replacement in San Ramon, CA — San Ramon Roof Repair

What a Full Replacement Covers, Layer by Layer

A complete job strips the old covering down to the roof deck, checks every sheathing panel for soft spots, and rebuilds from the substrate up. Nothing gets covered over.

• Tear-off removes worn shingles, old roofing felt, and tar paper so the decking is fully exposed for inspection.
• Decking inspection catches soft sheathing, stained plywood, and rot near the fascia before it spreads.
• Failed substrate is replaced with new OSB or plywood of matching thickness, fastened to truss and rafter framing.
• Self-adhered ice-and-water shield runs along the eave and valley, where ice dam backup damages the most homes.
• Synthetic underlayment covers the field, replacing saturated felt with a tear-resistant layer that bonds using a factory adhesive.
• Drip edge is fitted at the eave, the rake, and the verge on gable ends so runoff clears the fascia and gutter line.
• A starter course plus staggered field courses lock shingle edges against wind uplift.
• Ridge cap and ridge vents close the roofline while letting the attic breathe.
• Step flashing and counter-flashing are woven at sidewalls, and chimney flashing, pipe flashing, boot flashing, and the vent boot collars around plumbing stacks seal the rest.

Signs Your Roof Is Past Repair

Most failures here happen in stages: water wicks under a lifted shingle, erodes the underlayment, and reaches the sheathing months later.

• Granule loss shows up as grit collecting in the gutter and downspout after a dry summer.
• Shingles curl, crack, peel, or spall at the rake, ridge, and hip edges where wind bites first.
• Attic moisture appears as dark stains on insulation, damp rafters, or mold along the joists.
• Daylight through the roof deck means gaps have opened in the sheathing or a valley has split.
• A roofline that sags or settles points to framing decay, not just worn covering.
• Blistering, alligatoring, and flaking suggest end-of-life wear across the whole field.
• Ice dam removal along the eave is best handled with steam ice equipment, never a hammer or chisel.

Our Roof Replacement Process, Step by Step

Here is how a job moves from the first call to the final sweep. A typical single-family home takes two to four days once materials land.

1. Roof inspection and a written roof estimate: we measure by the roofing square and price tear-off separately from installation.
2. Permit paperwork and a building code check, since the work must pass inspection on fastening, ventilation, and fire rating.
3. Material delivery and dumpster placement, keeping the driveway clear and debris away from planting beds.
4. Ground protection with tarps, then scaffold and ladder setup, with every crew member tied off to a safety harness.
5. Tear-off with pry bars, roofing shovels, and roofing squares, pulling old nails so nothing punctures the new underlayment.
6. Deck repairs and waterproofing details before a single course goes down.
7. Field installation with a nail gun and air compressor set to the right depth, using ring-shank nails and screws on load-bearing brackets.
8. Hand-sealing with caulk, sealant, and roof cement at every penetration, then a magnetic nail sweep and a photo walkthrough.

Material Options and Typical Costs

Cost tracks material, roof pitch, and how many layers come off. Most homes fall between $450 and $1,200 per roofing square installed, or roughly $4.50 to $12 per square foot.

• Three-tab shingle is the lightest asphalt shingle and the least expensive, though heat cycling shortens its life.
• Architectural shingle adds weight and depth; lines like GAF Timberline, Owens Corning Duration, and CertainTeed Landmark carry longer manufacturer terms.
• Wood shake and cedar shake suit older estate rooflines but need more upkeep.
• Slate, clay tile, and concrete tile can last decades, and framing often needs reinforcement first.
• Metal panel roofing, including standing-seam panel and corrugated panel, reflects heat and sheds rain fast.
• Low-slope areas use membrane systems: TPO, EPDM, or PVC membrane, plus built-up roof and modified bitumen with a torch-applied cap sheet.
• Roof coating only makes sense on a sound flat roof; it will not fix a wet substrate.

Roof Details and Framing We Check

Every roofline sheds water differently, so the flashing plan changes house to house. Ask any roofing contractor, or any roofer, for a line-item scope and you will see it.

• Hip, gable, mansard, and gambrel shapes each need a different approach at valleys and transitions.
• Dormer, skylight, and chimney tie-ins get apron flashing and counter-flashing instead of a smear of mastic.
• Parapet walls and scupper drains need coping and membrane tie-ins to stop ponding water.
• Overhangs, canopy sections, and awning frames hide rot behind the soffit where water sits.
• Framing check: joists, rafters, trusses, purlins, and the ridge beam, plus battens and counterbattens on tile systems.
• A vapor barrier with soffit vent and attic fan coverage keeps the deck dry from below.
• Snow guards and roof anchors go where winter storms or ladder work call for them.
• Gutter, downspout, fascia, and soffit are checked together, since clogged gutters push water back under the eave.

Cost Factors, Warranty, and Insurance Claims

Three things move a quote more than anything else: how steep the roof is, how much decking has to be replaced, and how many layers come off during tear-off. Weatherproofing the transitions costs less than repairing the ceiling below them.

• Steep pitch and second-story access slow the work and add labor hours.
• Decking replacement, chimney work, and fascia repair are billed as add-ons, priced before we start.
• Manufacturer warranty registration is filed in your name so the coverage follows the house, not us.
• Our workmanship coverage is stated in writing on the estimate, next to the manufacturer term.
• Storm damage repair and insurance claim assistance: we document the damage, meet the adjuster, and hand over photos and measurements.
• Insurance rarely covers end-of-life wear, and we will tell you straight when a claim will not go through.

Why Homeowners Around Here Choose Us

We work the Mount Diablo foothills and the inland East Bay, where summers run hot and dry and winter storms arrive fast. That cycle hardens asphalt, dries out sealant, and loosens fasteners year after year.

Foggy mornings add coastal moisture, so ventilation and vapor control matter as much as the shingle we nail down. Every job is permitted, built to current California building code, and cleaned up before we leave.

Questions Homeowners Ask

How long does a roof replacement take?

Most single-family homes take two to four days of on-roof work. Decking repairs, tile, or a steep pitch can add a day.

Can you work over the old shingles?

An overlay saves dump fees but hides rot and traps heat. We recommend tear-off on homes here, and we will say so when an overlay is genuinely fine.

Do you help with insurance?

For storm damage, yes. We photograph everything, mark measurements, and walk your adjuster through the damage so the scope is complete.

Signs You Need Roof Replacement

What's Included

• ✓ Free roof inspection with photos of every problem area we find on the rooftop
• ✓ Written roof estimate priced by the roofing square, with tear-off and dump fees as separate lines
• ✓ Permit pulled in your name, and work built to current California building code
• ✓ Manufacturer warranty registration filed so coverage follows the house
• ✓ Complete tear-off and haul-away, with a dumpster on site and no debris left in the yard
• ✓ Daily cleanup plus a final magnetic nail sweep across the lawn and driveway
• ✓ Gutter and downspout flush, fascia check, and a walkthrough before we invoice

Related Services

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